This feeds back along the #15 circuit and continues to power the relay even when the ignition if OFF (the relay only needs 5.5v to remain energized). This was to prevent voltage coming from the alternator from feeding back and powering the relay even after the ignition is shut off.Īt the moment the ignition switch is turned off, the alternator D+ is still outputting some voltage. I had to add a 1A diode at the Gen light in the dash. This provided the maximum voltage to everything under the deck lid and probably more voltage at the secondary than I would have using any other solution. The relay was energized by the ignition switch (black) wire. I tapped 12v (actually closer to 14v while the engine running) straight from the alternator B+ and used a Bosch-style SPDT relay. My fix was to add a relay to the engine compartment. I cleaned up the connections but still had a noticeable voltage drop by the time I got to the coil. My battery was showing fully charged (12.6v) and as I walked my way thru the wiring from battery, to fuse box, to ignition switch, to fuse box and to ignition coil I found the voltage dropping off at each step. Less voltage thru the primary windings of the coil = lower output voltages at the spark plugs. It was because of this I discovered there was only around 10~11v at my ignition coil, just enough to keep the coil firing. From this point on I started to use the B+ on the alternator or the #30 on the diagnostic block for power. As I pressed the trigger for the timing light the light would flash but the engine would loose power and nearly stall until I let off the trigger. If your wiring was brand new this is probably not a problem, but if it is already degraded with years of oxidation at each connection creating a bit of resistance then you could find that when you pull the trigger to turn the light ON the coil stops firing. Thanks.Īsiab3 wrote: ashman40 wrote: The problem with using the coil #15 terminal is you will draw current away from the coil. Just want to make sure which alligator clip goes to which terminal. I use an old Centuy 1000 amp.never tried my little glove box size lithium unit but I guess that would work also. So you sent the portable jumper battery instead of the coil? Which one do you have?įrodge wrote: Old n' slow wrote: Rather than powering my timing light from somewhere under the hood ( I have a generator) or running power directly from the battery under the seat, I use my portable rechargeable jumper battery.just a suggestion in case you haven't though of it. Old n' slow wrote: Rather than powering my timing light from somewhere under the hood ( I have a generator) or running power directly from the battery under the seat, I just hate digital gauges for no other reason than the aesthetic…… I would be on that in a heartbeat if it wasn't digital.
It's got built in tach, dwell, volt, advance, etc.
Have you ever actually had that happen? I've never even thought about that… View original topic: Dwell meter and timing light recommendationĪshman40 wrote: The problem with using the coil #15 terminal is you will draw current away from the coil. :: View topic - Dwell meter and timing light recommendation Forumsįorum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up -> Dwell meter and timing light recommendation
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